What is a hallmark
A hallmark is a discreet mark stamped on a piece of jewelry, often inside a ring or near the clasp of a chain. In jewelry, this mark identifies the fineness or purity of the precious metals used and, depending on the hallmark, the workshop or manufacturer responsible for the piece.
What is the purpose of a hallmark when buying jewelry?
A piece of jewelry can have several marks, each serving a different purpose. Some indicate the metal's composition, while others identify the company responsible for the piece.
- The quality mark indicates the precious metal content. For gold, markings like 10K, 14K, or 18K correspond to different proportions of pure gold in the alloy.
- The manufacturer's or company's mark identifies the origin of the jewelry. It can take the form of a name, symbol, or logo associated with the house that manufactured or marketed it.
In Canada, the quality mark is not mandatory. However, when it is affixed, it must normally be accompanied by a trademark that is registered or for which an application for registration has been filed in Canada. This requirement allows the metal's quality indication to be associated with an identifiable company.
How do punching rules vary between Canada and Europe?
Hallmarks are not uniform from one country to another. Their shape, meaning, and the obligations surrounding them vary according to local regulations. A piece of jewelry made in Quebec may therefore bear very different marks from a piece originating from Europe.
- In Canada
The quality hallmark, such as 10K, 14K, or 18K, is not mandatory. When affixed, it must however comply with Canadian standards and be accompanied by a trademark identifying the responsible company, with certain exceptions provided for foreign hallmarks. - In Europe
There is no single hallmarking system for all countries. Rules vary between states and gold purity is often expressed in parts per thousand rather than carats. Thus, 417 corresponds to 10 carats, 585 to 14 carats, and 750 to 18 carats. - In France
Gold purity is expressed in parts per thousand and some guarantee hallmarks take the form of easily recognizable symbols. The eagle's head notably corresponds to 750 parts per thousand gold, the scallop shell to 585 parts per thousand gold, and the clover to 375 parts per thousand gold, i.e., 9 carats. 417 parts per thousand, equivalent to 10 carats, is not one of the purity levels commonly used in the French system.
These differences explain why two pieces of jewelry containing a comparable proportion of gold may bear very different inscriptions or symbols depending on their country of origin.
Our jewellers' opinion
In our view, the hallmark is above all a discreet, durable, and reliable indicator, intimately linked to the identity of the piece. It can provide an initial clue about the metal and its origin, without replacing the expertise of a professional. If doubt remains, knowing how to tell if a piece of jewelry is gold helps to better understand the different signs to look for.
Frequently asked questions about Solitaire
To preserve the aesthetic of the jewelry, the hallmark is usually placed in an inconspicuous spot. On a ring, it is found inside the band; on a necklace or bracelet, near the clasp; and on earrings, on the post or the clasp.
Yes. The hallmark doesn't apply solely to solid gold. Sterling silver often bears the mark 925, while plated jewelry may display other indications related to its composition. Therefore, the presence of a hallmark does not mean that a piece of jewelry is made of solid gold.
Yes. With wear and repeated friction, the hallmark can gradually fade. If it becomes difficult to read, a jeweler can sometimes re-apply it, depending on the type of mark and the piece.