What are the different types of pearls?
Formerly known as a margarita or union, the pearl is a concretion produced by certain mollusks. A true little miracle of nature, it forms when the mollusk reacts to the presence of a foreign body in its tissues by gradually surrounding it with layers of nacre.
Its discovery is not a recent development. Pearls worked by humans have been found at archaeological sites dating back more than 8,000 years. A symbol of purity and prestige, from ancient Rome to Victorian England, the pearl has always been a subject of fascination and covetousness. At the end of the 19th century, the Japanese Kokichi Mikimoto marked a turning point in the history of the pearl by succeeding in producing a cultured pearl, that is to say, a real pearl whose formation is triggered by human intervention.
In short: the different types of pearls
Today, there are four main types of cultured pearls used in jewelry: Akoya pearls, freshwater pearls, Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls. In addition to these, there are several much rarer varieties, such as Keshi, Mabé, conch, Melo, or abalone pearls.
They all possess their own colors, shapes, dimensions, and above all, their own personality. This is probably what makes the pearl so fascinating: even when they look alike, two pearls are never perfectly identical.
The quality criteria of a pearl
Each pearl possesses its own characteristics, which makes finding two perfectly identical pearls almost impossible. This singularity is part of its charm, but it also influences its value, particularly when selecting several pearls to create a harmonious necklace or bracelet.
The criteria that define a pearl's value
The value of a pearl is never based on a single element. Its size, shape, luster, surface quality, orient, and even how well it is matched with other pearls are all characteristics used to appreciate its beauty and rarity. Color also plays a role and depends notably on the mollusk species, its environment, and the conditions of the water in which it lives. The table below summarizes the main criteria observed in jewelry.
| Criterion | What is observed |
|---|---|
| Size | For equal quality, a large pearl is generally rarer. |
| Shape | Perfectly round pearls are particularly sought after. |
| Symmetry | A regular shape generally increases the value. |
| Color | It includes the body color as well as its overtones. |
| Luster | It corresponds to the intensity and sharpness of the reflected light. |
| Surface | One observes the irregularities, marks, and small imperfections. |
| Nacre | Its thickness and quality influence the beauty and durability. |
| Orient | It refers to the iridescent reflections visible beneath the surface. |
| Matching | For several pearls, their harmony with one another is evaluated. |
Freshwater pearls or saltwater pearls: what is the difference?
Before exploring the different types of pearls in detail, an initial distinction helps to better navigate the subject. Pearls used in jewelry can be produced by mollusks living in freshwater or by pearl oysters living in a marine environment. This difference influences their cultivation method, appearance, rarity, and, very often, their price.
Freshwater pearls
Freshwater pearls are mainly cultivated in mussels living in lakes and ponds, particularly in China. The traditional cultivation technique uses small tissue fragments to induce the formation of several pearl sacs within a single mollusk. Depending on the methods used and the species, a single mussel can thus produce several dozen pearls. This higher production volume generally contributes to making them more affordable. They also offer a magnificent diversity of shapes and colors ranging from white to pink, peach, and lavender.
Saltwater pearls
Saltwater pearls are produced by various species of pearl oysters living in saltwater. This large family includes Akoya pearls, Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls, among others. Their production is generally more limited than that of freshwater pearls, and their cultivation requires particularly precise conditions. They are often sought after for their luster and roundness as well as, in the case of Tahitian pearls and South Sea pearls, for their remarkable size and colors.
The main types of pearls
Now that the distinction between freshwater and saltwater is clearer, let’s look at the four main varieties of cultured pearls most frequently encountered in jewelry: Akoya, freshwater, Tahitian, and South Sea.
Akoya pearls
From the Japanese akoya-gai, meaning pearl oyster, the Akoya pearl is intimately linked to the history of Kokichi Mikimoto. It remains the very image of the classic pearl today: round, luminous, and generally white or cream. Some also possess delicate pink or silver overtones.
Akoya pearls commonly measure 6 to 9 mm, although smaller or larger ones can be found. They are primarily cultured in Japan, but also in China and Vietnam. They are particularly appreciated for their very sharp and almost mirror-like luster. An Akoya pearl necklace also requires significant selection work since each pearl must match the others in terms of size, color, shape, and luster.
Freshwater cultured pearls
The beautiful strands of white, pink, or slightly peach pearls used to make necklaces or bracelets very often come from freshwater pearls. Thanks to tissue nucleation, some mussels can produce several dozen pearls. They are known for their variety: round, oval, slightly baroque, or frankly irregular. This diversity allows jewelers to play with shapes rather than always seeking perfection. China has long dominated this production.
Tahitian pearls
Their name alone is dreamy. Originating from French Polynesia, Tahitian pearls are likely among the most spectacular. Contrary to popular belief, they are not simply black or gray. Their body color can vary from silver-gray to very dark gray, while their orient reveals an astonishing variety of overtones: green, blue, purple, eggplant, or pink. These shades seem to change depending on the light and the angle from which the pearl is viewed.
The so-called "peacock" orient is particularly sought after. It generally combines green and pink overtones that overlay the pearl's color and give it an almost shifting depth. Produced by the black-lipped oyster Pinctada margaritifera, Tahitian pearls generally measure between 8 and 14 mm, with some capable of becoming even more imposing. Our Pure Tahiti model notably features this dark pearl in a pair of earrings made in Montreal.
South Sea pearls
Among the largest cultured pearls in the world, South Sea pearls come primarily from Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. The Pinctada maxima oyster exists notably in silver-lipped and gold-lipped varieties. The former is associated with magnificent white and silver pearls, while the latter can produce hues ranging from champagne to intense gold.
Their diameter is generally between 8 and 18 mm, with some reaching even larger dimensions. Their size, thick layer of nacre, often satiny luster, and the time required for their production partly explain their great value.
What is the average price of pearls by type?
Here is a simple question with an answer that is much less so! The price of a pearl depends on many factors: its size, shape, luster, surface quality, color, and rarity. For a strand of pearls, the quality of the matching must also be taken into account. The metal used, the clasp, and the jewelry craftsmanship will also have a significant influence on the final price of a piece of jewelry.
As a rough guide, here are some price ranges that can be found for jewelry-grade pearl necklaces. These amounts remain very variable. Two necklaces made of the same type of pearl can have completely different values depending on their quality.
| Type of beads | Indicative price range for a necklace |
|---|---|
| Freshwater | About $300 to $1,500 and up |
| Akoya | About $650 to $3,000 and up |
| Tahitian | About $1,000 to $7,000 and up |
| South Sea | About $4,500 to $12,000 and up |
Rare gems to discover
Beyond the four main types of pearls, some much less common varieties are worth a closer look.
The Mabe pearl
The Mabe is a hemispherical pearl that grows against the inside of the mollusk's shell rather than freely within its tissues. Its unique shape allows for the creation of large pearlescent surfaces, highly prized in earrings, rings, and pendants.
The Keshi pearl
The Keshi pearl forms without a bead nucleus. It is generally a byproduct of the cultivation process of other pearls and is recognized by its irregular shape as well as its highly organic appearance. Since it does not possess a large central nucleus, its luster can be particularly striking.
The conch pearl
The conch pearl comes from the Caribbean queen conch. Unlike traditional nacreous pearls, it has a different structure and can display colors ranging from white to deep pink or orange. Some feature a stunning pattern on the surface reminiscent of small flames. Natural conch pearls are particularly rare.
Melo and abalone pearls
Melo pearls are often recognizable by their orange or yellow hues. As for pearls coming from the abalone, they display iridescent colors ranging from blue to green and violet. Their natural rarity and stunning colors make them more collectors' items than pearls used in traditional jewelry.
How to recognize a quality pearl
There are a few simple tests that can provide clues to help distinguish a real pearl from an imitation. By gently rubbing two pearls against each other, a real pearl generally produces a slight feeling of friction, whereas a perfectly smooth imitation will tend to slide. However, this test should be considered a clue rather than an absolute method of authentication.
Luster also remains an excellent indicator: a high-quality pearl has a deep, vivid glow rather than just a surface shine. To learn more, read our article on how to distinguish a real pearl from a fake one.
Our jewelers' advice
Pearls no longer need to wait for a special occasion to come out of the jewelry box. They can be worn just as easily on a delicate chain as in a bracelet, a ring, or a pair of earrings. Freshwater pearls thus serve as an excellent entry point into the world of pearl jewelry, while allowing for the creation of high-quality pieces. Baroque shapes are particularly interesting. Their irregularity adds character and serves as a reminder that every pearl is unique. As for care, a little gentleness is all it takes. Avoid applying perfumes and cosmetics directly onto the pearls, wipe them with a soft cloth after wearing them, and store them away from jewelry that could scratch them.
About Flamme en rose
Founded in Montreal in 2009 by two jewelers, Michèle Côté and Audrée Michaud, Flamme en rose is a Montreal jewelry house specializing in the creation of handmade jewelry. Since its inception, the company has favored a human-scale approach, where every individual is guided in choosing a piece of jewelry that aligns with their tastes, values, and budget. Flamme en rose offers a selection of jewelry adorned with natural pearls and cultured pearls, chosen for their luster, color, shape, and unique character. True to its artisanal approach, the house pays special attention to the manufacturing quality, comfort, and durability of each piece.
Frequently asked questions about bead types
A natural pearl develops without human intervention and is now extremely rare, while a cultured pearl is formed following an intervention by the pearl farmer intended to trigger the creation of a pearl sac. In both cases, the pearl is produced by a mollusk. A cultured pearl is therefore a real pearl.
Two genuine pearls rubbed very gently against each other usually produce slight friction, unlike many very smooth imitations. This small test is not infallible, however. In case of doubt regarding a valuable pearl, it is best to have it examined by a professional.
No. They are simply different. Freshwater pearls offer a wide variety of shapes and colors and are generally more accessible. Tahitian pearls are distinguished instead by their naturally dark colors and their often larger dimensions.
It can cost a few hundred dollars or several thousand. The type of pearl is only one factor. Its size, luster, shape, surface quality, the clasp, and the metal used also strongly influence the price.
Avoid direct contact with perfumes, cosmetics, and chemical products. Wipe the pearls with a soft cloth after wearing them and store them separately to protect their surface.
A baroque pearl is a pearl with an irregular shape, rather than one that is perfectly round or symmetrical. It can be elongated, wavy, flattened, or feature unique curves and textures.
